men s polos Dior travels back in time for couture
It was an ambitious fusion of two periods for Dior Homme: A sartorial homage to the past that twinned what the house called the “reckless abandon” of youth with the couture of Monsieur Dior’s New Look.
Designer Van Assche used references to 1990s tattoo culture in prints and gothic silver jewelry alongside suit variations on the Bar Jacket from the famed 1947 collection that transformed Western fashion.
The first styles, accessorized with silk neck scarves, featured some beautifully refined single and double breasted suits with narrow waists that curved out in a slight peplum shape. Suits are the bread and butter of the house.
“I thought it was a good moment for Dior to go back to its DNA, like really the sharply cut suit,” the 41 year old Van Assche told The Associated Press.
A flash of bright red across a striped T shirt, meanwhile, turned the dial to the ’90s with the appearance of a spiked tattoo motif on the shirt undergarment. Continuing that vibe were the baggy jeans, wooly tank tops and sneakers, which were worn by models with messy hair.
“It’s looking back with a lot of love and sweet memories to when I myself was a teenager,” Van Assche said.
It was an intentionally split esthetic and featured some very strong individual pieces.
Yet, the result was sometimes incongruous as a whole.
PATTINSON SAYS CLOTHES HELP ACTING ROLE
“Twilight” star Robert Pattinson demonstrated why he’d been chosen as a Dior brand ambassador by extolling the influence of fashion and clothing on the ability of an actor to engage in a role.
“Shoes. I always find that when you play a character, if you find the right pair of shoes there’s a trigger that happens inside you,” said the 31 year old who was dressed head to toe in Dior Homme.
“Or to have your pants up here, you feel like an entirely different person.”
He added that “you can change your body language and your entire silhouette. It’s all done through the clothing.”
Model Bella Hadid joined Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld, sporting a chic new beard, alongside “Pearl Harbor” actor Josh Harnett on the Dior Homme front row.
A rare face on the Paris fashion scene, Harnett, 39, said he was invited by Dior since he was in town promoting his new movie “Oh Lucy!” It’s a French Japanese co production that was screened in the International Critics’ Week section of last year’s Cannes Film Festival.
“It’s a comedy and lot of it is a road trip with me and two older Japanese ladies not speaking the same language and having parallel crises,” he said. “I think it’s really funny.”
WALKING IN A THOM BROWNE WONDERLAND
There was the real crunching sound of fake snow at Thom Browne’s theatrical menswear display that wowed guests with its snowy white forest scene and tall silver birches lining the runway.
Equally impressive were the winter styles in the clothes.
With many designs channeling the sartorial vibe from which the New York City based designer cut his cloth, Browne prepared his models to brave the harshest elements of the coldest months and in the process produced one of the best shows of the season.
Grey blue knit ted caps, oversize knit scarves, red snow gloves and robust black hiking boots with thick lacing accessorized wrapped up looks. They included block like fur trims on cuffs and hems in the coat heavy 32 look collection with classic tailoring in knit fabric.
Textured wool and checks motifs that merged a winter scarf with a suit style pattern adored long A line coats amid some of the thickest outerwear to be seen this fall winter.
A touch of humour, in braided hair extensions with colored ribbons and sheeny ankle warmers that evoked a tied trash bag, was a crowd pleaser.
BALMAIN HOMME’S ECLECTIC SPARKLE
Eclectic was the word for Olivier Rousteing’s high energy show for Balmain Homme.
Mixing menswear and the womenswear pre collection designs, the 32 year old designer referenced almost all of the thematic touchstones used in previous shows within the same collection.
The 64 looks in mainly green, black and gold were a glimmering treasure trove of ideas.
Silver sparkle on a women’s singlet looked like chainmail, seen again in a men’s statement coat which screamed 1980.